Sarchu to Leh and back

Sarchu to Leh seemed to be the toughest drive. Not only the road was bad but was narrow and gave little chance for two cars to cross at one go. Since the weather was bad we encountered snow fall on the way which in a way was good as there were lesser vehicles on the road. My travel partner was suffering from AMS and we had to stopover often for him to vomit.

I was in double minds as to turn back since he wasn't feeling all that good but then this trip is fraught with such eventualities. Leh weather can change as and when it wishes to and one has to keep warm. i guess the challenge is not to think of the weather and be on top of it.

Our planning had gone well and we were prepared for all problems that we might encounter on the way but then we hardly stopped on the way to leh except to admire the natural beauty of places one can only dream about. Each mountain we crossed opened a new place and soon we hit the plains of ladakh.

the drive was now comfortable and by evening we had hit Leh. The final toll was paid and while an average ladakhi is nice, it is the other locals one should avoid communicating with as i found them to be rude and a trip spoiler.

A good decent room in ladakh would cost around 2500 Rs / night and the hotel we checked in was right in the heart of the travel district of ladakh so there was ample opportunity to communicate and share experiences with fellow travelers.

Ladakh is one of those places that opens up for a few months of the year so it is important that one respects and pays them what they ask for. i didn't find things to be overtly expensive and one should keep in mind that this is their bread and butter. It is important for one to understand that they also have a living to make and it is only during this season they get an opportunity to make some money.
the ladakh tee shirts are a must buy. At 350 Rs it is a steal as it is hand embroidered  and for 400 Rs they can even write what you desire.

Eating places are plenty and cheap. there are no taxes on the food, so you pay what you see on the menu.Although i would suggest one should be courteous as ladakhi's dont like to entertain snobs and a couple of incidents did occur, where people who were trying  to bargain were given a cold shoulder.

The trip thereon is good and a visit to Pangong tso lake is a must. A word of warning - the road is extremely bad so it is advisable to start in the morning if planning to come back the same day. It is not advisable to drive any where in the night as there are no signboards. Please do take the inner line permits that are easily available and register your vehicle at appropriate check posts. No one will stop you if you don't but makes sense in case there is a emergency.

The way back from ladakh is via Srinagar and the only times that we got stuck in traffic was at Zozilla right before Sonmarg. The road here is extremly bad and truck drivers are rude so forget ladakh. You are in Kashmir and be ready for some R'n R with the rude drivers.

Although it is suggested you stay in Srinagar for a day,we continued to drive and drove for almost 32 hours straight. Perhaps we had a rather bad experience with the drivers. You will miss your small car here. At times we hung precariously on ledges at convoys went past.

A must see is the Kargil war memorial and wearing shorts to this place is a strict no- no. However pay respect to the martyrs and not click pictures. I found that people were only interested in clicking pictures and not respecting the supreme sacrifice made by our soldiers. Avoid in case you don't want soldier's memory being  disrespected.

The road from Jammu is NHI and is a six lane highway. It took us less than 10 hours to reach Ambala  once we had reached Jammu.
The trip was something to remember and while as we slept in our warm beds, it was time to look back and dream how we had conquered the trip they all journey- once in a life time.

AMS - things to do

Any road trip needs you in top physical condition and this is no different. Our trip was also fraught with AMS at times and it can be a total spoil sport. My travel partner suffered from AMS and while i had slight symptoms, I did not feel the need for oxygen cylinder even once, perhaps my body was more suited for mountain terrain keeping in mind that I grew in the hills when i was young. however here are a few tips to keep you safe from the mountain sickness that can leave you in severe deli ma as to continue with the trip or turn back, Also keep a look out for TCP or army transit camps that offer medical care for those of us who feel the sickness. Make sure you take proper precautions and do not ignore the signs of AMS as it may cause severe hindrance in the travel plans. 

 Important Tips to Avoid AMS on Leh Ladakh Road Trip

• Start taking Diamox 24 hours before Manali after consulting a physician as it has certain side effects like irritation etc.
• You can also take coca which is also taken for high altitude mountaineering.
• Take chocolates, chewing gums etc. Due to low oxygen levels you will feel tired easily, that’s when chocolates and energy bars will come to your rescue.
• Have garlic as it increases oxygen capacity.
• Take ginger water.
•  Stay hydrated. Drink lots of fluids (NOT alcohol). Acclimatization causes fluid loss, so drink at least 4 to 5 litres of water per day.
• Eat your food regardless of not being hungry, for high altitude acclimatization. However, eat light.
• Avoid tobacco, alcohol, sleeping pills and other depressant drugs.

Oxygen Cylinder

• Carry small, portable Oxygen cylinders (5-6) which last for a few minutes. These are easily available at known chemists in Metro cities.
• Oxygen cylinder costs approximately Rs 400. Carry  beforehand as you might not find them in Manali due to their being out of stock.

Jispa to Sarchu day3

We had camped almost ten km of Jispa and on arriving in to Jispa, it seemed we had taken the right decision of camping away from Jispa. it was rather small and with hardly any living facilities. We packed up our tent and started our journey towards Sarchu.

camps to avoid if possible 

It is almost 120 km drive and on the way there are some bad roads. There are river crossings and some high altitudes that are laden with snow. Now these parts are still untouched by commercial tourism activities and therefore are much better than places like Rohtang Pass.

The temperatures drop as the height increases and we reached Sarchu around 2 in the evening. We found a quaint little spot to pitch our camp and went to sleep.

However by evening it started to rain and snow and we had no option but to move from our spot. that night we took shelter in a camping facility that was rather pricey. People have the habit of taking advantage of you. Please if travelling on this route try to avoid these camps who are there to make a quick buck. Not a very good experience with the tent owners either.

We were tired and had a bit of car trouble due to subzero temperatures. My travel partner was also not feeling very well and had come down with some bug. The onward journey seemed tough and in the morning it was a pleasant sight as we saw snowfall. The weather was getting worse but it didn't make sense to stop on the way and we were off to Leh. Today we were going to reach Leh and it was up to me to drive all the way to ladakh.


PS: The road is not good at all from sarchu to Leh and it is advisable to do this journey during day time. the key is to start early in the morning so you get maximum day light during the day time.
Also there are no petrol pumps on the way so make sure there is ample arrangement for fuel. the last petrol pump is in Keylong before ladakh so make sure your tank is full when you leave keylong and carry a spare Jerry can  for extra fuel.

Getting your vehicle ready for the trip

Preparing your car for Ladakh

An arduous journey like Ladakh can take its toll, on not only the driver and passengers, but also on the car. In places like Manali - Leh highway or Zanskar Valley, a mechanical failure can spell disaster. With nearest town miles away and a mechanic even further down the road, it is a good idea to get your car serviced properly and get the worn out parts replaced, before embarking upon a journey of this magnitude.
 

Things to watch out for when getting the car serviced for Ladakh:

Clutch Plates: For the steep and hilly terrain of Ladakh, it is best to ensure that your car’s clutch

plates have enough life left in them to see you through the trip comfortably. When you’re getting your car serviced, ask the mechanic to check the clutch plates and replace if necessary.

Engine oil and filter: It is essential to get your cars engine oil and filter changed before going to Ladakh.

Brake pads, shoes and oil: Get the brake pads and shoes checked and if there is little life left in them, get them changed. Remember driving in hilly terrain continuously causes more wear than driving in plains. Also get the brake oil level checked as well, get it bleeded to ensure there is no air pocket left that could jeopardize your ability to brake on time. 

Coolant: Continuous driving at high rpm takes its toll on the engine and causes it to over heat, even in cold climates. Get the car coolant changed/topped up at the time of service.

Air and fuel filter: Get both of these changed, Ladakh has quite a dusty environment and it doesn’t takes long for an old air filter to clog up. Poor fuel quality can also clog your cars fuel filter, so get them change if they are nearing the end of their life.

Electrical and battery: Ensure all the electrical connections are working properly and battery is in good condition. Don’t forget to top up battery water and change any bulbs/fuses which are showing signs of age.

General servicing: Ensure all the nuts and bolts are fastened properly; also check fan belts, timing etc.

Tyre alignment: Get the tyres aligned properly if there is a need; remember you will need you car to be handling at its best.

Tyres: Check the condition of the tyres, including of the spare wheel. If the tyres are nearing end of their life or have serious cuts/cracks in them, get them replaced asap!

Anti rust treatment: Most service centers offer anti rust treatment for the underbelly of the car before the monsoons. You will need it, since you will be driving through water crossings and snow and these can cause your car’s underbelly to catch rust.  

Learn minor repair/servicing:

If you have gone through the above routine, your car should hold through for the entire trip. However it would be a good idea to ask your mechanic to teach you minor chores like fixing punctures, changing bulbs and fuses, checking and topping up essential fluids such as battery water, coolant, engine oil etc.

 

Final checks on the D-Day and beyond:

Now that you have prepared your car and are ready to embark upon your trip to Ladakh. Here are few checks that you need to perform on a daily basis.

Check if all lights, horn and indicators are working.

Double check fluid levels such as engine oil, brake oil, coolant, battery water etc.

Check tyres for air pressure as well as look for any signs of any nails, rocks etc lodged in tyre tread.

Check for any leakages or loose nuts and bolts.

Start the engine and let it idle, then check if there is any unusual sound coming for the engine.

List of essential tools, spares and car documents:

Although it is recommended to learn basic repair of your car, even if you don’t know much, it is generally a good idea to carry necessary tools and spares. Sometime even in the smallest of town you can find a mechanic or some one who knows how to do basic repair, but might not have the required tool and spares to go through it. 

 

Essential tools:

1. Tool kit: OEM tool kit that came along with you car is an essential part of the tool kit that every road trip enthusiast must carry.

2. Screw Driver set: Try to carry a screwdriver set which has multiple attachments; a set which also includes a set of Allen keys is a good choice. While purchasing screwdriver set, ensure you get one which is the sturdiest of the lot and wont break while you are tightening or opening something. 

3. Steel wire: Can be used to tie together various parts in case of any breakage.

4. Electricians & Scotch tape: Can be used for tying together various parts and insolating damage wires.

5. Torch light: In case of break down in the evening or early in the morning you will need it to see your car’s engine, even once you are out of your car, it can prove quite useful.

6. Foot or Electric air pump: Even though you have a spare tyre it is a good idea to carry an electric pump, since it can be used not only for fixing punctures it can also be used for adjusting tyre pressure.

8. Puncture repair kit: Puncture repair kit for tyres with tubes should consist of; rubber patches, solution for pasting the patches on tube and tyre iron for taking off the tyre from the rim. In case of tubeless tyres, purchase a tubeless puncture repair kit. It is also recommended to carry a spare tyre valve.

9. Jump start cable: In case you car’s battery dies, you can use the jumpstart cable to start your car with the help of another tourers car.

10. Spare can for petrol/diesel: In case you run out of petrol/diesel at some point, you will need a spare can in which you can bring enough petrol/diesel to reach the nearest town.

11. Petrol pipe 1-2 meter: In case you run out of petrol/diesel in the middle of nowhere and a kind soul agrees to lend you spare petrol/diesel, you will need a pipe through which you can get the petrol out of the tank.

12. Plastic sheet couple of meter long: Can be used for keeping the tool or to stop air/water from coming in, in case the one of the windows break.

13. Fire extinguisher: Can come in handy, carry it!

Essential Spares:

1. Engine oil: Carry at least half a liter of engine oil recommended by your car manufacturer, daily check engine oil level and top up if necessary.

2. Headlight and brake light bulb: Always carry a headlight and brake light bulb.

3. Coolant: Can come in handy in case your car is overheating.

4. Battery Water: Carry a liter of battery water, frequent starts and continuously running headlight and music system can put quite a load on the battery causing the water to evaporate faster.

5. Spare fuse: Ask your mechanic about the essential fuses that are needed for the car and carry them with you.

6. WD40: Can be used to lubricate and clean various mechanical and electrical parts of your car.

7. Rope for towing the car: In case of a serious break down you will need it to tow your car to the mechanics shop.

8. Electrical wire: Can be used to replace faulty electrical wire in the wiring.

9. Few nuts and bolts of various sizes: Based on your cars requirement, carry nuts and blots of various sizes for things like the bumpers, doors etc.  

10. Windscreen cleaning liquid: Windscreen can at times get quite dirty and cleaning it with windscreen wipers can produce scratches. It is best to carry a windscreen cleaning solution and a clean soft cloth to clean the windscreen at regular intervals to ensure maximum visibility.

11. Small wooden plank: In case your car gets stuck in mud and starts loosing traction, you will need to put couple of small wooden planks underneath the stuck tyre to ensure it gets adequate grip.

12. Spare car key: Carry the spare car key in some thing that you will always carry with you when you get out of your car, after all it is not unusual to leave the key inside of car by mistake and get locked out.

13. Vehicles with automatic key less entry may face trouble in sub zero temperatures. All you need to do is keep the remote warm and not let it out in the normal weather. We faced trouble with the key less entry system on the way when the temperatures fell below 0 near Jispa. 

Essential documents:

1. Driving license
2. Registration Papers of your car
3. Insurance certificate
4. Pollution under control certificate

Carry two - three copies of the above mentioned documents; generally you should have photocopies of Registration certificate and Insurance certificate handy, while the original should be kept in safe yet accessible place. In case of photocopies, they would have to be attested by a gazetted officer in order to hold any value. You should always have your original license and PUC certificate handy as well.

DAY 2 - Manali to Jispa/ Marhi

We got up rather early in the morning and perhaps it was the excitement to set out on the adventure or rains and sleet storm that was beginning to fall in Manali. As we had to first acquire a permit it wasn't possible for us to start the journey right away. 

We got ready and left for the SDM  office where we were supposed to get the permit. India has a strong red tape culture and while no office opens at the set time, this office is no different. the office would open at 10'o clock. The time in our watches was hardly 8.00 am .

We decided to put this time to good use and decided to discover old Manali in the mean time. A visit to Hidimba temple ate good time and on the way back from the temple a long traffic jam meant that by the time we reached the office it was close to 9.45 am. I set out to get  the licence while leaving my travel partner with the vehicle so we could set out on the journey as soon as I could get the same issued. 

Hidimba temple in old manali

At around 10.30 am the office opened and while we were told to collect the license at around 3 pm by fellow travelers ( People tend to spread rumors, so don't listen and ask the office people for information). I was told to come back around 12 am to collect it.  Once all the formality was done. ( you would need your driving licence, pollution of the vehicle and RC for the car to get this permit). The permit is free of cost so don't pay anything if some one asks for money. I went back at 11.30 and as luck would have it it was ready. So getting there early helps as its first come first serve and only 1000 permits are issued in a day for both rohtang and leh.

As i didn't want to waste time, ran down to our vehicle ( Please don't run in case you not in top physical form)and here we were off to Leh. the journey had begin.

The first check post is right outside Manali and there is a huge tax of around 600 rs that one has to pay, however vehicles to Leh are exempted , So in case you are stuck in a line show your permit and move on .

Enroute to Rohtang pass a pleasant change from delhi traffic Jams

The second time the permit is needed when you move towards Rohtang Pass.  The road is good to Rohtang pass bearing a few odd cobbled roads at places. keep ample time for traffic jams as even a small truck can take up to one hour to cross if caught in a wrong place. 

It had started to snow by the time we reached Rohtang. the time was almost 2.30 pm. The road after Rohtang pass although empty is extremely bad and perhaps the first precursor of the journey that lies ahead. As a matter of fact, it is only in a few places that one will find good roads after one crosses Rohtang pass.

The ideas of reaching Jispa, changed into being able to cross the area till where that permit was required to be shown. We reached the final check-post around 6 in the evening and while no one stopped us, we were told that this was the last stop for the permit that had been acquired in the morning.

the first camping Site

Now if you are carrying your own tents, you may put a camp and stay for the night  around these areas, else there is no hotel where one can stay. One has to keep moving on in to the night to Jispa which can easily be done by nine in the night. It is not recommended to drive in the night as the roads are very bad and average speed is not more that 20 km/hour.

We of course carried our tent so found a nice spot by the river and halted for the day in a place called Deta Marhi.

Our camp

PS: the phones do not work in these areas so make sure any loved ones back home know that you will be out of reach for a couple of days . Only BSNL is the service provider that actually works so get a cell one post paid connection before leaving, but still its the whim and fancy of the telephone company if it will work.
 Route - Manali - Rohtang Pass- Deta Marhi distance covered - nearly 120 KM

Journey day 1 - Delhi to Manali

the vehicle santa fe 

Our journey started from Delhi  and we started around 6 am. The plan was to reach Manali the same day and pretty soon we were cruising on the GT karnal road or NH1 as it is known. There are lot of options to eat on the highway and we stopped only to get gas and food once.

The journey was uneventful and we drove at respectable speeds. Please make sure you carry ample change for the toll taxes that you encounter on the way as there are some hefty tolls along this route. We ended up paying almost 700 Rs in tolls before we actually reached the corner to Manali.  Once you reach Chandigarh, be prepared to be stopped by cops  on some false pretext of jumping light or so. They generally stop cars to extort money and this can range any where between 300 to 1000 Rs.

We reached Keerat pur and took a wrong turn to Una and this led us to waste almost two hours of precious driving time as we had to back track all the way to keerat pur. 

Journey to Manali was uneventful and we almost reached around ten where after contemplating to pitch a tent or stay in a hotel we decided to stay in a hotel . there are a lot of guest houses in the beginning of Manali that are cheap and good for a night’s sleep.

We did come to know that one needs a permit to drive to Leh from the SDM’s office and this can be a tedious job as everyone who wants to drive needs one. Some new rule as to 1000 permits being issued to go to rohtang pass and Leh each day. The idea is to reach the office well in time to save precious time but as we had reached rather late, we had no option to go the same day to submit our application.

We ate at a restaurant and good part was there were no unwanted taxes on the food that have always left a bad taste in my mouth.  Day one was coming to an end and we were all excited and apprehensive about our  journey the next day. We had planned to cover distance to Sarchu. A small quaint little place in the ladakh region.

Route 

Delhi - Ambala - Chandigarh - Keerat Pur - Manali

PS: Be careful about the signboard at Keerat pur that marks the way to Manali. its not a good signboard and we missed it only to back drive for almost two hours. Ofcourse if you are extremely adventurous  you can drive to Dharamsala but then you will waste a complete day driving to Manali as there is no other route.

The first movie Leh - Journey and beyond

So we finally did it ,3500 Km in 8 days flat. Of course we drove straight for 32 hours which is dangerous but encountered all aspects of the nature and managed to get enough pics and videos to make a full length movie. the trailer is bad but the spirits high... so will be updating soon on the entire journey as soon as the tiredness wears out .... ergo i am going back