Sarchu to Leh and back

Sarchu to Leh seemed to be the toughest drive. Not only the road was bad but was narrow and gave little chance for two cars to cross at one go. Since the weather was bad we encountered snow fall on the way which in a way was good as there were lesser vehicles on the road. My travel partner was suffering from AMS and we had to stopover often for him to vomit.

I was in double minds as to turn back since he wasn't feeling all that good but then this trip is fraught with such eventualities. Leh weather can change as and when it wishes to and one has to keep warm. i guess the challenge is not to think of the weather and be on top of it.

Our planning had gone well and we were prepared for all problems that we might encounter on the way but then we hardly stopped on the way to leh except to admire the natural beauty of places one can only dream about. Each mountain we crossed opened a new place and soon we hit the plains of ladakh.

the drive was now comfortable and by evening we had hit Leh. The final toll was paid and while an average ladakhi is nice, it is the other locals one should avoid communicating with as i found them to be rude and a trip spoiler.

A good decent room in ladakh would cost around 2500 Rs / night and the hotel we checked in was right in the heart of the travel district of ladakh so there was ample opportunity to communicate and share experiences with fellow travelers.

Ladakh is one of those places that opens up for a few months of the year so it is important that one respects and pays them what they ask for. i didn't find things to be overtly expensive and one should keep in mind that this is their bread and butter. It is important for one to understand that they also have a living to make and it is only during this season they get an opportunity to make some money.
the ladakh tee shirts are a must buy. At 350 Rs it is a steal as it is hand embroidered  and for 400 Rs they can even write what you desire.

Eating places are plenty and cheap. there are no taxes on the food, so you pay what you see on the menu.Although i would suggest one should be courteous as ladakhi's dont like to entertain snobs and a couple of incidents did occur, where people who were trying  to bargain were given a cold shoulder.

The trip thereon is good and a visit to Pangong tso lake is a must. A word of warning - the road is extremely bad so it is advisable to start in the morning if planning to come back the same day. It is not advisable to drive any where in the night as there are no signboards. Please do take the inner line permits that are easily available and register your vehicle at appropriate check posts. No one will stop you if you don't but makes sense in case there is a emergency.

The way back from ladakh is via Srinagar and the only times that we got stuck in traffic was at Zozilla right before Sonmarg. The road here is extremly bad and truck drivers are rude so forget ladakh. You are in Kashmir and be ready for some R'n R with the rude drivers.

Although it is suggested you stay in Srinagar for a day,we continued to drive and drove for almost 32 hours straight. Perhaps we had a rather bad experience with the drivers. You will miss your small car here. At times we hung precariously on ledges at convoys went past.

A must see is the Kargil war memorial and wearing shorts to this place is a strict no- no. However pay respect to the martyrs and not click pictures. I found that people were only interested in clicking pictures and not respecting the supreme sacrifice made by our soldiers. Avoid in case you don't want soldier's memory being  disrespected.

The road from Jammu is NHI and is a six lane highway. It took us less than 10 hours to reach Ambala  once we had reached Jammu.
The trip was something to remember and while as we slept in our warm beds, it was time to look back and dream how we had conquered the trip they all journey- once in a life time.

AMS - things to do

Any road trip needs you in top physical condition and this is no different. Our trip was also fraught with AMS at times and it can be a total spoil sport. My travel partner suffered from AMS and while i had slight symptoms, I did not feel the need for oxygen cylinder even once, perhaps my body was more suited for mountain terrain keeping in mind that I grew in the hills when i was young. however here are a few tips to keep you safe from the mountain sickness that can leave you in severe deli ma as to continue with the trip or turn back, Also keep a look out for TCP or army transit camps that offer medical care for those of us who feel the sickness. Make sure you take proper precautions and do not ignore the signs of AMS as it may cause severe hindrance in the travel plans. 

 Important Tips to Avoid AMS on Leh Ladakh Road Trip

• Start taking Diamox 24 hours before Manali after consulting a physician as it has certain side effects like irritation etc.
• You can also take coca which is also taken for high altitude mountaineering.
• Take chocolates, chewing gums etc. Due to low oxygen levels you will feel tired easily, that’s when chocolates and energy bars will come to your rescue.
• Have garlic as it increases oxygen capacity.
• Take ginger water.
•  Stay hydrated. Drink lots of fluids (NOT alcohol). Acclimatization causes fluid loss, so drink at least 4 to 5 litres of water per day.
• Eat your food regardless of not being hungry, for high altitude acclimatization. However, eat light.
• Avoid tobacco, alcohol, sleeping pills and other depressant drugs.

Oxygen Cylinder

• Carry small, portable Oxygen cylinders (5-6) which last for a few minutes. These are easily available at known chemists in Metro cities.
• Oxygen cylinder costs approximately Rs 400. Carry  beforehand as you might not find them in Manali due to their being out of stock.

Jispa to Sarchu day3

We had camped almost ten km of Jispa and on arriving in to Jispa, it seemed we had taken the right decision of camping away from Jispa. it was rather small and with hardly any living facilities. We packed up our tent and started our journey towards Sarchu.

camps to avoid if possible 

It is almost 120 km drive and on the way there are some bad roads. There are river crossings and some high altitudes that are laden with snow. Now these parts are still untouched by commercial tourism activities and therefore are much better than places like Rohtang Pass.

The temperatures drop as the height increases and we reached Sarchu around 2 in the evening. We found a quaint little spot to pitch our camp and went to sleep.

However by evening it started to rain and snow and we had no option but to move from our spot. that night we took shelter in a camping facility that was rather pricey. People have the habit of taking advantage of you. Please if travelling on this route try to avoid these camps who are there to make a quick buck. Not a very good experience with the tent owners either.

We were tired and had a bit of car trouble due to subzero temperatures. My travel partner was also not feeling very well and had come down with some bug. The onward journey seemed tough and in the morning it was a pleasant sight as we saw snowfall. The weather was getting worse but it didn't make sense to stop on the way and we were off to Leh. Today we were going to reach Leh and it was up to me to drive all the way to ladakh.


PS: The road is not good at all from sarchu to Leh and it is advisable to do this journey during day time. the key is to start early in the morning so you get maximum day light during the day time.
Also there are no petrol pumps on the way so make sure there is ample arrangement for fuel. the last petrol pump is in Keylong before ladakh so make sure your tank is full when you leave keylong and carry a spare Jerry can  for extra fuel.

Getting your vehicle ready for the trip

Preparing your car for Ladakh

An arduous journey like Ladakh can take its toll, on not only the driver and passengers, but also on the car. In places like Manali - Leh highway or Zanskar Valley, a mechanical failure can spell disaster. With nearest town miles away and a mechanic even further down the road, it is a good idea to get your car serviced properly and get the worn out parts replaced, before embarking upon a journey of this magnitude.
 

Things to watch out for when getting the car serviced for Ladakh:

Clutch Plates: For the steep and hilly terrain of Ladakh, it is best to ensure that your car’s clutch

plates have enough life left in them to see you through the trip comfortably. When you’re getting your car serviced, ask the mechanic to check the clutch plates and replace if necessary.

Engine oil and filter: It is essential to get your cars engine oil and filter changed before going to Ladakh.

Brake pads, shoes and oil: Get the brake pads and shoes checked and if there is little life left in them, get them changed. Remember driving in hilly terrain continuously causes more wear than driving in plains. Also get the brake oil level checked as well, get it bleeded to ensure there is no air pocket left that could jeopardize your ability to brake on time. 

Coolant: Continuous driving at high rpm takes its toll on the engine and causes it to over heat, even in cold climates. Get the car coolant changed/topped up at the time of service.

Air and fuel filter: Get both of these changed, Ladakh has quite a dusty environment and it doesn’t takes long for an old air filter to clog up. Poor fuel quality can also clog your cars fuel filter, so get them change if they are nearing the end of their life.

Electrical and battery: Ensure all the electrical connections are working properly and battery is in good condition. Don’t forget to top up battery water and change any bulbs/fuses which are showing signs of age.

General servicing: Ensure all the nuts and bolts are fastened properly; also check fan belts, timing etc.

Tyre alignment: Get the tyres aligned properly if there is a need; remember you will need you car to be handling at its best.

Tyres: Check the condition of the tyres, including of the spare wheel. If the tyres are nearing end of their life or have serious cuts/cracks in them, get them replaced asap!

Anti rust treatment: Most service centers offer anti rust treatment for the underbelly of the car before the monsoons. You will need it, since you will be driving through water crossings and snow and these can cause your car’s underbelly to catch rust.  

Learn minor repair/servicing:

If you have gone through the above routine, your car should hold through for the entire trip. However it would be a good idea to ask your mechanic to teach you minor chores like fixing punctures, changing bulbs and fuses, checking and topping up essential fluids such as battery water, coolant, engine oil etc.

 

Final checks on the D-Day and beyond:

Now that you have prepared your car and are ready to embark upon your trip to Ladakh. Here are few checks that you need to perform on a daily basis.

Check if all lights, horn and indicators are working.

Double check fluid levels such as engine oil, brake oil, coolant, battery water etc.

Check tyres for air pressure as well as look for any signs of any nails, rocks etc lodged in tyre tread.

Check for any leakages or loose nuts and bolts.

Start the engine and let it idle, then check if there is any unusual sound coming for the engine.

List of essential tools, spares and car documents:

Although it is recommended to learn basic repair of your car, even if you don’t know much, it is generally a good idea to carry necessary tools and spares. Sometime even in the smallest of town you can find a mechanic or some one who knows how to do basic repair, but might not have the required tool and spares to go through it. 

 

Essential tools:

1. Tool kit: OEM tool kit that came along with you car is an essential part of the tool kit that every road trip enthusiast must carry.

2. Screw Driver set: Try to carry a screwdriver set which has multiple attachments; a set which also includes a set of Allen keys is a good choice. While purchasing screwdriver set, ensure you get one which is the sturdiest of the lot and wont break while you are tightening or opening something. 

3. Steel wire: Can be used to tie together various parts in case of any breakage.

4. Electricians & Scotch tape: Can be used for tying together various parts and insolating damage wires.

5. Torch light: In case of break down in the evening or early in the morning you will need it to see your car’s engine, even once you are out of your car, it can prove quite useful.

6. Foot or Electric air pump: Even though you have a spare tyre it is a good idea to carry an electric pump, since it can be used not only for fixing punctures it can also be used for adjusting tyre pressure.

8. Puncture repair kit: Puncture repair kit for tyres with tubes should consist of; rubber patches, solution for pasting the patches on tube and tyre iron for taking off the tyre from the rim. In case of tubeless tyres, purchase a tubeless puncture repair kit. It is also recommended to carry a spare tyre valve.

9. Jump start cable: In case you car’s battery dies, you can use the jumpstart cable to start your car with the help of another tourers car.

10. Spare can for petrol/diesel: In case you run out of petrol/diesel at some point, you will need a spare can in which you can bring enough petrol/diesel to reach the nearest town.

11. Petrol pipe 1-2 meter: In case you run out of petrol/diesel in the middle of nowhere and a kind soul agrees to lend you spare petrol/diesel, you will need a pipe through which you can get the petrol out of the tank.

12. Plastic sheet couple of meter long: Can be used for keeping the tool or to stop air/water from coming in, in case the one of the windows break.

13. Fire extinguisher: Can come in handy, carry it!

Essential Spares:

1. Engine oil: Carry at least half a liter of engine oil recommended by your car manufacturer, daily check engine oil level and top up if necessary.

2. Headlight and brake light bulb: Always carry a headlight and brake light bulb.

3. Coolant: Can come in handy in case your car is overheating.

4. Battery Water: Carry a liter of battery water, frequent starts and continuously running headlight and music system can put quite a load on the battery causing the water to evaporate faster.

5. Spare fuse: Ask your mechanic about the essential fuses that are needed for the car and carry them with you.

6. WD40: Can be used to lubricate and clean various mechanical and electrical parts of your car.

7. Rope for towing the car: In case of a serious break down you will need it to tow your car to the mechanics shop.

8. Electrical wire: Can be used to replace faulty electrical wire in the wiring.

9. Few nuts and bolts of various sizes: Based on your cars requirement, carry nuts and blots of various sizes for things like the bumpers, doors etc.  

10. Windscreen cleaning liquid: Windscreen can at times get quite dirty and cleaning it with windscreen wipers can produce scratches. It is best to carry a windscreen cleaning solution and a clean soft cloth to clean the windscreen at regular intervals to ensure maximum visibility.

11. Small wooden plank: In case your car gets stuck in mud and starts loosing traction, you will need to put couple of small wooden planks underneath the stuck tyre to ensure it gets adequate grip.

12. Spare car key: Carry the spare car key in some thing that you will always carry with you when you get out of your car, after all it is not unusual to leave the key inside of car by mistake and get locked out.

13. Vehicles with automatic key less entry may face trouble in sub zero temperatures. All you need to do is keep the remote warm and not let it out in the normal weather. We faced trouble with the key less entry system on the way when the temperatures fell below 0 near Jispa. 

Essential documents:

1. Driving license
2. Registration Papers of your car
3. Insurance certificate
4. Pollution under control certificate

Carry two - three copies of the above mentioned documents; generally you should have photocopies of Registration certificate and Insurance certificate handy, while the original should be kept in safe yet accessible place. In case of photocopies, they would have to be attested by a gazetted officer in order to hold any value. You should always have your original license and PUC certificate handy as well.

DAY 2 - Manali to Jispa/ Marhi

We got up rather early in the morning and perhaps it was the excitement to set out on the adventure or rains and sleet storm that was beginning to fall in Manali. As we had to first acquire a permit it wasn't possible for us to start the journey right away. 

We got ready and left for the SDM  office where we were supposed to get the permit. India has a strong red tape culture and while no office opens at the set time, this office is no different. the office would open at 10'o clock. The time in our watches was hardly 8.00 am .

We decided to put this time to good use and decided to discover old Manali in the mean time. A visit to Hidimba temple ate good time and on the way back from the temple a long traffic jam meant that by the time we reached the office it was close to 9.45 am. I set out to get  the licence while leaving my travel partner with the vehicle so we could set out on the journey as soon as I could get the same issued. 

Hidimba temple in old manali

At around 10.30 am the office opened and while we were told to collect the license at around 3 pm by fellow travelers ( People tend to spread rumors, so don't listen and ask the office people for information). I was told to come back around 12 am to collect it.  Once all the formality was done. ( you would need your driving licence, pollution of the vehicle and RC for the car to get this permit). The permit is free of cost so don't pay anything if some one asks for money. I went back at 11.30 and as luck would have it it was ready. So getting there early helps as its first come first serve and only 1000 permits are issued in a day for both rohtang and leh.

As i didn't want to waste time, ran down to our vehicle ( Please don't run in case you not in top physical form)and here we were off to Leh. the journey had begin.

The first check post is right outside Manali and there is a huge tax of around 600 rs that one has to pay, however vehicles to Leh are exempted , So in case you are stuck in a line show your permit and move on .

Enroute to Rohtang pass a pleasant change from delhi traffic Jams

The second time the permit is needed when you move towards Rohtang Pass.  The road is good to Rohtang pass bearing a few odd cobbled roads at places. keep ample time for traffic jams as even a small truck can take up to one hour to cross if caught in a wrong place. 

It had started to snow by the time we reached Rohtang. the time was almost 2.30 pm. The road after Rohtang pass although empty is extremely bad and perhaps the first precursor of the journey that lies ahead. As a matter of fact, it is only in a few places that one will find good roads after one crosses Rohtang pass.

The ideas of reaching Jispa, changed into being able to cross the area till where that permit was required to be shown. We reached the final check-post around 6 in the evening and while no one stopped us, we were told that this was the last stop for the permit that had been acquired in the morning.

the first camping Site

Now if you are carrying your own tents, you may put a camp and stay for the night  around these areas, else there is no hotel where one can stay. One has to keep moving on in to the night to Jispa which can easily be done by nine in the night. It is not recommended to drive in the night as the roads are very bad and average speed is not more that 20 km/hour.

We of course carried our tent so found a nice spot by the river and halted for the day in a place called Deta Marhi.

Our camp

PS: the phones do not work in these areas so make sure any loved ones back home know that you will be out of reach for a couple of days . Only BSNL is the service provider that actually works so get a cell one post paid connection before leaving, but still its the whim and fancy of the telephone company if it will work.
 Route - Manali - Rohtang Pass- Deta Marhi distance covered - nearly 120 KM

Journey day 1 - Delhi to Manali

the vehicle santa fe 

Our journey started from Delhi  and we started around 6 am. The plan was to reach Manali the same day and pretty soon we were cruising on the GT karnal road or NH1 as it is known. There are lot of options to eat on the highway and we stopped only to get gas and food once.

The journey was uneventful and we drove at respectable speeds. Please make sure you carry ample change for the toll taxes that you encounter on the way as there are some hefty tolls along this route. We ended up paying almost 700 Rs in tolls before we actually reached the corner to Manali.  Once you reach Chandigarh, be prepared to be stopped by cops  on some false pretext of jumping light or so. They generally stop cars to extort money and this can range any where between 300 to 1000 Rs.

We reached Keerat pur and took a wrong turn to Una and this led us to waste almost two hours of precious driving time as we had to back track all the way to keerat pur. 

Journey to Manali was uneventful and we almost reached around ten where after contemplating to pitch a tent or stay in a hotel we decided to stay in a hotel . there are a lot of guest houses in the beginning of Manali that are cheap and good for a night’s sleep.

We did come to know that one needs a permit to drive to Leh from the SDM’s office and this can be a tedious job as everyone who wants to drive needs one. Some new rule as to 1000 permits being issued to go to rohtang pass and Leh each day. The idea is to reach the office well in time to save precious time but as we had reached rather late, we had no option to go the same day to submit our application.

We ate at a restaurant and good part was there were no unwanted taxes on the food that have always left a bad taste in my mouth.  Day one was coming to an end and we were all excited and apprehensive about our  journey the next day. We had planned to cover distance to Sarchu. A small quaint little place in the ladakh region.

Route 

Delhi - Ambala - Chandigarh - Keerat Pur - Manali

PS: Be careful about the signboard at Keerat pur that marks the way to Manali. its not a good signboard and we missed it only to back drive for almost two hours. Ofcourse if you are extremely adventurous  you can drive to Dharamsala but then you will waste a complete day driving to Manali as there is no other route.

The first movie Leh - Journey and beyond

So we finally did it ,3500 Km in 8 days flat. Of course we drove straight for 32 hours which is dangerous but encountered all aspects of the nature and managed to get enough pics and videos to make a full length movie. the trailer is bad but the spirits high... so will be updating soon on the entire journey as soon as the tiredness wears out .... ergo i am going back 

Things to carry for Leh trip

Before we drive off, I decided to create a comprehensive list of all the items we are carrying with us. This may be of help to you in case you are planning a trip of the same. Of-course we plan to rough it out for any eventuality therefore there may be a few of items that you may or may not include depending on the budget
Vehicle
1) Car of choice - a diesel vehicle preferably a a four x four ( We are driving a Hyundai Santa Fe)
2) The car has been services
3) two spare tires with rims
4) Luggage carrier
5) tow rope
6) Winch set for any unforeseen events
7) Additional jack

Other things
1) a two man tent
2) A mobile loo
3) A pick axe
4) torches
5) batteries
6) A small stove
7) cooking utensils
8) a portable table /chair
9) Sleeping bags
10) Electric kettle with car plug
11) Camera
12) Go pro movie camera
13) Batteries
14) self filtering water bottles
15) Anti spill cups
16) Small knife
17) keg to carry fuel
18) icebox
19) reading lights
20) fuel lighter
21) Sun screen lotion
22) lip balm

Food 
1) soups
2) biscuits
3) rice
4) lentils
5) cup o noodles
6) maggi
7) dry fruits
8) Lots of drinking water
9 ) medicines - Dixom is important and a couple of portable oxygen cylinders .

I hope this list is more than enough to cover this journey , of-course one can splurge as much as they want but then for a budget traveler these are essentials. 

Hemis festival - 26th June

Hemis Gompa, the largest and richest Buddhist monastery in Ladakh plays host to the popular yearly festival day called Hemis Festival. The day has been declared as the state holiday. This 2-day festival is celebrated on the 10th day of the Tibetan lunar month and remembered as the birth of Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. During the festival, the locals get dressed-up in traditional clothes, where men wear cummerbunds and women wear vibrant headgears and loads of jewelry. The Lamas perform sacred masked dance, known as Chaam while they are accompanied by musical drums, long horns and cymbals. This is an extremely well-known festival. The most mysterious form of celebration are the mystic mask dances. The Mask Dances of Ladakh are referred collectively as chams Performance. Chams performance is a fundamental a part of Tantric tradition. Chams are performed only in the monasteries that practice Vajrayana teachings of Tantric Buddhism.

Now this Hemis festival is something that can be caught on our trip. This would be rather interesting as we would be in the region around that time and thus it is going to be an interesting experience. 

The two-day Hemis Festival celebrates victory of good over evil. One can see a number of people dressed in bright and colourful clothes to celebrate the festival. The Tibetan calendar indicates that on lunar month's tenth day, the Lama Head organises this Hemis Festival. In order to protect his people, the Tibetan Buddhism founder, Guru Padmasambhava, fought the evils. On his birth anniversary, all the people celebrate Hemis festival grandly.

Hemis Festival is one of those festivals which one should definitely visit. Tourists have a lot in store during this festival. Tourists can enjoy these festivities as spectators also. During this Hemis festival, a colourful fun-fair is held. These fairs have a number of stalls and shops where one can purchase a variety of souvenirs and handicrafts. The items kept on sale are also displayed as a part of an exhibition, where people can choose from a large variety and also window-shop.

On this particular day, a ritual is followed. People on this festival mask themselves, and sing and dance. The main highlight of the Hemis festival is the unique masked dance performed by Lamas. The dance performance depicted this festival's central theme of victory of good over evil. The Lamas gather around the central flagpole. This flagpole is located in the monastery's courtyard, where the singing and dance performances along with plays take place. One of Ladakh's oldest carnivals is the Hemis festival. This festival is organised in the monastery, which is 300-year-old and also is Ladakh's richest monastery.

All the activities during the Hemis Festival take place at the Hemis Gompa, which is the centre. This Hemis Gompa is Ladakh's largest and most affluent Buddhist monastery. This festival brings in a lot of colours in the city as the masks and costumes have vibrant and bright colours. The masks are brilliantly coloured. The costumes of the dance performers are also very eccentric and luxuriant. This colourful atmosphere brings an all new charm to the festiva

.

With the brightly painted masks, which is one of the most integral part of the dance, the festival also has a lot of heavy and loud music accompanied with a lot of celebration. One can hear the sound of various musical instruments like the drums, long horns and cymbals along with the dance performances. Country liquor is considered as this festival's another major attraction.

Climate details

So the time has come to pack the bags and while I still contemplate on what to carry and what not, it is important to understand that clothes are not that important. While carrying a pair of clean undergarments is important, I think I can make do with a few set of clothes. So what was I supposed to carry and it was important to understand the temperatures in ladakh. So I visited a few pages and found out this information.

If not for its cold desert like climate, Ladakh would have been all the more accessible to tourists. Ladakh’s climate is a little extreme – the summers can get a little harsh with direct sunlight falling at such a high altitude and winters can be really cold, with temperatures dropping below freezing point. So when is the best time to visit Ladakh? Read our month-on-month breakdown of weather in Ladakh and infer yourself.

January, February and December: One of the coldest times of the season, the temperature rarely goes above the freezing point starting from December. The nights are chilling and temperatures hover around -20°C. Days are still bearable with 2°C as average temperature. January is also the month of maximum snowfall and it is not uncommon to see 6” plus thick ice sheet formations over rivers and lakes. Most highways are closed and Ladakh remains practically inaccessible during these months. Frostbites are common and most locals develop scales and cracks on their skins. February is when locals get only a little respite from the cold and one may find a few shops open for business.

March and April: Although relatively better than January, February and December, it is still too cold to resume a normal routine the months of March and April. Naturally, March is colder than April. Temperatures hover between 6°C in the day and -5°C in the night. April is still better and day temperatures go up as much as 12°C. There is still the occasional snowfall that further dips the mercury down.

May, June, July and August: This is when Ladakh receives the bulk of its tourists annually. Most highways open up the last week of April or the first week of May. May is when the action starts. The weather clears up and one can enjoy their Ladakh sojourn “sunny side up”. Temperatures are a pleasant 16°C during the day and a barely manageable 3°C in the night. The breeze still carries the winter chill and one may feel the bite if sitting in shade for too long. June is when the mercury really kicks up and temperatures soar up to 21°C (day). You still can’t do without a blanket at night when it’s 7°C. This is when tourism is at its peak and Ladakh is buzzing with visitors, most on month long treks and pan-Ladakh expeditions. This is also when most events and local festivals happen to be celebrated. The days are blessed with plenty of sun, sometimes a little too harsh. Direct exposure to sunlight for long can leave you sunburnt and tanned, and not in a good way. July is arguably the warmest month of the year. The day and night temperatures are 25°C and 10°C respectively. This is when Ladakh receives the odd rain, otherwise, the weather remains pleasant and inviting all through the month. August is when it starts to get chilly once again and the extra quilts have to be pulled out. If you happen to be traveling during August, make sure you’re packing a lot of extra woolens. The breeze is a lot gustier and carries a  lot of bite.

After reading this I inferred that while days may or may not need warm clothes, nights were definitely going to be chilly and therefore I needed a good sleeping bag and a tent to sleep in.

September, October and November: It’s already cold, by now. At elevations higher than 3000 meters, there aren’t too many days you will not feel cold. All through September, the weather is somewhat similar to that in May. The days are a lovely 20-22°C and all of Ladakh is rinsed by ample sunshine. The nights are back to being bitterly cold and you would need a desi angeethi to warm things up inside. But it’s during the months of October and November that Ladakh goes back to its gloomy self. Since temperatures start dropping below 0°C on a lot more regular basis once again, all interstate roads and passes are closed again 5-6 months. 

Acclimatization

Today it is going to be all about acclimatization and the things that are required to e known about it. We tend to get excited and do things without keeping in mind there is a higher force that is in play and there fore i am going to cover the topic in today's blog. 

Acclimatization is one of the important things to prepare for while planning trip to Ladakh. The fact that Leh and most of the places in Ladakh are located above the altitude of 10,000 feet, visitors may suffer from dizziness, headaches or even acute mountain sickness (AMS). So planning to acclimatize to the high altitude condition becomes one of the most important things to take into consideration while you are planning your trip.

The best thing about going to Ladakh, nestled amidst the mountain ranges of the Himalayas and The Karakoram, is the breathtaking view. But there are some issues which travelers to such high-altitude face. They complain of vomiting, dizziness etc. these symptoms do not give you a chance to enjoy yourself. Some people can deal with them while the others really suffer because of them.

If one flies or drives to a higher altitude directly, then sickness during Ladakh trip is pretty common. One has to experience quite extreme consequences. If one goes higher, things can get more serious. Therefore, before you set your foot out of your house to go to Ladakh, you should be aware what altitude sickness is and how to save yourself from it.

Acclaimed and Acute Mountain Sickness

Following are the scales of Altitude:

High (8,000 – 12,000 feet)

Very High (12,000 – 18,000 feet)

Extremely High (18,000+ feet)

Many times people go up to 8000 feet without any problems, the problem comes when the altitude increases. The intake of Oxygen becomes less and therefore the breathing rate becomes higher. The level of Oxygen in blood remains the same as is required at the time doing some daily household activity. When one spends more time in high altitude and accustoms himself with such Oxygen changes, this is called as Acclimatization. Different people will acclimatize at different rates and thus there is no comparison.

Acute mountain sickness (AMS) starts above the altitude of 10,000 Feet to most of the people. AMS becomes severe as the elevation becomes higher. Try to avoid going to such high altitudes directly. The condition can get worse when one sleeps, since the body respiration decreases.

If you can acclimatize properly- great, if not- move down. Nevertheless, there preventive AMS medicines too which can be consumed after consulting a doctor as there might be side effects.

Try a test to check for Ataxia. Ask the person to walk in a straight line, placing toe to toe. If he is unable to do that, immediately move down.

Tips for Better Acclimatization

Below are a few tips that will certainly help you in better acclimatization:

1. Gradual Increase in the altitude

If one goes by acclimatization rules, they state that after 10,000 feet, one should stay overnight after completing 1000 feet and for a complete day, after 3000. If things go fine, it means that you will be able to enjoy yourself in the mountains.

2. Keep hydration levels in your body proper

Consume plenty of ORS water or other fluids such as soup, milk, tea and juice. Instead of plain water, consume garlic flavored water by keeping garlic in your water bottles. This keeps the oxygen level, normal. Avoid too much of coffee or black tea.

3. Over hydration is a complete no-no

Do not force anyone to drink water, if they are not thirsty or they will vomit or worse, can develop cerebral edema (hyponatremia, confusion, weakness, seizures or coma).

4. Try not to sleep at high altitudes

When one sleeps, respiration in our body decreases. It is advisable that after spending a day at a high altitude, move down in the evening.

5. Do not over- exert

Avoid any kind of over exertion or unnecessary physical activity.

6. Stay away from anti-depressant drugs, alcohol, smoking and tobacco

Stay from anti-depressant drugs (like sleeping pills), alcohol, smoking and tobacco. You will face more respiratory troubles.

7. Keep-up the body warmth

Keep-up the body warm by weaning woolens. Your clothes should be dry as well.

8. Consume Carbohydrates

Consume a diet that is rich in carbohydrate as you get around 70 percent of your calories from it.

9. not sleep during the day

Avoid sleeping during day time and try to indulge in one or the other activity.

10. Try Sleeping in upright position

Try and sleep by resting your back against the wall or try to keep your head on an elevated level from the body. Your head will feel much lighter.

11. Carry preventive medication

Do not forget to pack AMS preventive medication but make sure you consult a doctor before consuming them because of the possible side effects. To check for possible allergies, you can try them a week or two before the trip.

12. If condition worsens, quickly move down

If symptoms of the AMS increase, you must move down at once. This is the last and the best solution.

Symptoms of AMS

Following are the category of symptoms for the levels of AMS with their cure:

AMS Symptoms	AMS Level	Possible Cure
Headache, dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, and a general feeling of malaise	Mild	Medication or Descend
Decreased coordination (ataxia), Severe headache (not relieved by medicine), other mild level symptoms with increased effect	Moderate	Advanced Medication or Descend  about 305-610 meters
Inability to walk, decreasing mental status, and fluid build-up in the lungs	Severe	Immediate Descend about 610-1,220 meters

Is taking kids or babies to high altitudes safe?

According to studies, it is safe to carry an infant, at least 3 months old. The baby should not have any illness or should not be premature too. Along with this, there are other tips too, which a doctor can tell better.

Whatever has been given here is enough, however it is always advisable that before planning a trip to a region such as Ladakh, which is located on extremely high altitudes, one should always consult a physician. These are important suggestions but a doctor or an expert can guide you better. 

The Map

Today I decided to check on the route we were going to take and finally came up with a Map. it is kind of full circle.

Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha, drew a circle with a piece of red chalk and said: "When men, even unknowingly, are to meet one day, whatever may befall each, whatever their diverging paths, on the said day, they will inevitably come together in the red circle.”

The trip to Leh is such. When one starts their journey after Ludhiana, it does not matter if you are to go via Srinagar or Manali you will come to a full circle after a while. As I sat and drew a map, I knew no matter what I Did I was to reach the same point in life one again.

What if Gautama meant this only? What if wanted me to visit the land of the gods and finish another journey. They have called it a journey of a life time and while  I was contemplating my thoughts on the issue, my mind wandered around. While my travel partner is busy shopping around for the trip, I wondered if I was ready.

Ever since my childhood I have been a wanderer and while I have searched desperately for an anchor, the anchor of my life my wife is away for work on business for fifteen days. So I am all alone. A much needed break from the ordinary life.

I met her in a similar circle just as Buddha had predicted. I met her where and when it had to happen. It was no use waiting and while it is safe to say that I am in love and happy , I yearn for that old life and here I am getting on with a journey . Is it a bucket list thing. I don’t have a bucket list. I am an ordinary guy, just with an opportunity to travel.

Any ways I have believed in the theory forever and here I am waiting for departure…..

Oh almost forgot the map

To be continued….

Day 2 Planning the trip of a life time

My last post was about the fitness part for the trip to Ladakh. Well So we are in the process of getting things organized. One development that has been is that we are not making any bookings and relying on tents on our way to Leh, ladakh, Well it may seem fool hardy at first, but then we thought it was best to keep our minds open and try not to push our selves too much. Setting a destination might seem to be a good idea, but we want our trip to be wild. So we have decided on going from the Srinagar route to begin with and the dates are set now only where we are going to be is some thing that is not decided as yet.

As wild as it could be. Keeping that it in mind we are going to buy a couple of mountain bikes tomorrow . hopefully we will be able to get them cheap. Cooking is going to be a task but our camping gear is now in order. Yoga mats , sleeping bags , tent , cooking stove pans pots are all there now. Of course I need to pack some toilet paper for the journey.

Now that the trip is shaping up and the vehicle is in fine order.  I think we are all set to go for this trip and hopefully we will get to see what needs to be seen and do what needs to be done. And then we need to click a lot of pictures on the way. We are trying to keep it simple and no matter how tough they make the trip seem to be. I think it is going to be a good learning experience. 

Let me tell you a bit about myself:

My name is Siddhartha and i am an avid adventurer. Since childhood i have loved to travel and have traveled almost all around the world the only thing i haven't done is travel with a partner. This is my first trip with some one and actually it was his idea only to travel to Leh. Which of course i couldn't resist saying no. What if my first marriage anniversary is just a day before or 21st June and my wife is rather angry with me for doing this. .....

To be continued

Planning the trip of a life time – Day one 15 days to departure

  They say that it is a trip of a life time, the ultimate adventure and yet, I was a bit hesitant at first. Not to say that the trip was planned over a couple of drinks and now that there is only a fortnight left to go, things have just got serious.

To begin with, a trip to leh, Ladakh is not something, you take to your neighbor hood “baniya “store. Meticulous planning and arrangements have to be made, vehicle checked and other resources to be scrounged.  Any ways so here I sit and wonder how the trip is going to be. Things that come to my mind are, am I fit to take this trip? This is the first and foremost question that comes to my mind. I don’t want to fall sick on the trip and while a doctor / my bro In law is going to take care of the medicinal part, I must start to exercise a bit now. At least for the next fifteen days to gain some strength for the arduous walking that may be entailed in the journey ahead.

It has been rather long time since I took a trip of this magnitude and all the videos that I have seen on the net, tell me one thing everything and anything can go wrong so one has to be in the best of mind and shape. Unlike the average tourist this is going to be roughed out.

 Any ways i needed to know what ladakh was all about and the internet had to say this

"Ladakh,  is one of the land of high passes, is one of the highest visited tourist destinations in India. Located more than 3,000m above the sea level, the scenic beauty of the Himalayan range and the Karakoram Mountain ranges add to the alluring beauty of this region.

Any road trips to Ladakh takes you through scenic valleys, rugged terrains, high passes, snow clad mountains and many more fascinating elements of nature. Offering mesmeric views of the surroundings, these trips also offers adequate amount of challenges as the prevailing conditions along these regions cannot be exactly predicted at times.

There are two different routes that lead to Ladakh- one from Srinagar and the other from Manali: Srinagar to Leh and Manali to Leh."

Hmmm… So there are two routes to heaven. Does that mean whether you sin or be good, you will reach the final destination? So which is heaven and what is hell? Climbing too fast can definitely equate to hell. As was confirmed by P (will refer my travel mate as P from now on). A story of cerebral edema just came through. Definitely these people traveled by air, so can be blamed for ignorance of the terrain. As I said before physical fitness for such trips is important!!!

But then again one be aware of nature not afraid.

To be continued…..